Hi. I'm Larry. I'm a Wendigo from the hollars of War, West Virginia. People around here don't really notice me or all my cousins very much. We just try to stay out of trouble and out of the way. But that's only half of it. Above me is little Messie. Her real name is Mary Jess but everyone around here just calls her Messie. Anyway she's kind of a weeb. But hopefully you'll see some of her adventures (and misadventures) right here on this page. Below is the history of our little town. We're proud of it, and we appreciate you coming by! 

War, West Virginia: A Historical Overview

Early Settlement and Land Grants (Pre-1870)

The area that would become War, West Virginia was sparsely populated in the early 19th century. It was originally part of Tazewell County, Virginia, until McDowell County was created in 1858 (and became part of West Virginia upon statehood in 1863). Early land activity included pioneer families acquiring tracts along local streams. One prominent pioneer was Mathias Harman Sr., who settled nearby around 1771 and secured land in the region that he passed to his heirs. However, true permanent settlement in the immediate War area did not begin until the post-Civil War period. Around 1870, John E. Harman (Mathias’s great-grandson) acquired most of the land where the town now sits. John Harman farmed the land and built a homestead in a hollow called “John’s Branch,” later passing his holdings to his sons. These early settlers established a foothold about 50 years before War’s official founding, marking the first continuous habitation in the valley.

Founding of War and the Origin of Its Name

War is the southernmost incorporated city in West Virginia, located in McDowell County near the Virginia border. The community’s development remained modest until the late 19th century. In the 1880s–1890s, local entrepreneurs opened a few small coal mines in the vicinity (worked by hand and horse-drawn wagons), and a cluster of houses and businesses grew up, informally called **“Miner’s City”**. The town’s unusual name “War” comes from the nearby War Creek. According to local history, War Creek earned its name around 1788, when a battle occurred near the creek’s source between Native Americans and either frontiersmen or rival tribes. The creek’s dramatic name was later applied to the town. In 1904, the Norfolk & Western Railroad (N&W) laid tracks into the valley, greatly expanding access. N&W officials reportedly disliked the “Miner’s City” moniker and decided to use “War,” posting that name on the new railroad station (after the creek). A post office was established under the name War in 1906, cementing the change. When the settlement formally incorporated as a city on April 6, 1920, the founders officially adopted “War” as its name. Thus, what had started as Miner’s City became the City of War – the only U.S. town by that name – in homage to its creek and the legendary frontier skirmish that preceded it.

Economic Development: Coal Mining Boom and Industry

From the early 20th century through mid-century, War’s fortunes rose with the Appalachian coal boom. The arrival of the N&W Railroad around 1904 transformed the local economy, enabling large-scale coal mining to flourish. Entrepreneurial residents like Alexander Marrs Harman (a son of John E. Harman) began some of the first major mining operations in the area, exploiting rich seams of bituminous coal. Coal companies built tipples, opened mine entries in the surrounding hills, and recruited labor. For several decades, coal mining and related industries (such as coal preparation and railroad transport) were the economic lifeblood of War. The town became a hub for the Big Creek District of McDowell County, with numerous nearby coal camps (e.g. Caretta, Coalwood, Berwind, and others) feeding commerce into War. By the 1940s and 1950s, mines around War were running near peak production, and the city thrived on coal profits. War’s population swelled as miners and their families moved in, and supporting businesses – from equipment suppliers to retail shops – prospered alongside the mines.

Political and labor developments accompanied the coal boom. In the early 20th century, southern West Virginia was a focal point of coal labor struggles. McDowell County mines (including those near War) initially resisted unionization, even as violent conflicts like the Mine Wars erupted elsewhere in West Virginia around 1919–1921. Coal operators in McDowell kept mines open-shop (non-union) through the 1920s by using tactics like company guards and “yellow-dog” contracts that banned union membership. By the 1930s, however, the national tide turned in favor of labor organizing. Under President Franklin Roosevelt’s New Deal, legal protections for collective bargaining enabled the United Mine Workers of America (UMWA) to finally organize the West Virginia coalfields. In 1933–1934, the UMWA rapidly unionized even long-resistant areas, and McDowell County’s miners (War’s included) joined en masse. Unionization brought improved wages and safety standards, and the UMWA became a powerful political force in the region for decades. Thus, War’s economic heyday was also marked by the broader social movement of miner unionization, which secured better conditions for the town’s workforce.

Demographic and Cultural Changes Through the 20th Century

War’s population grew steadily in the first half of the 20th century, mirroring the coal industry’s expansion. In 1930, shortly after incorporation, the city had about 1,392 residents; by 1950 the U.S. Census counted nearly 4,000 inhabitants (a post-war peak). The 1950s were remembered as War’s “golden age.” During that era, the downtown was bustling: virtually every storefront was occupied by a thriving business, including multiple clothing stores, shoe shops, furniture and hardware dealers, restaurants, and even three movie theaters. As one local history noted, “the town was the hub of the district and almost anything one wanted to purchase could be secured in town”. War also supported numerous civic and social organizations. Churches were (and remain) especially prominent – at mid-century, well over a dozen churches served the community, reflecting the deep religious roots of the populace. Ethnically, the town and surrounding coal camps were diverse by West Virginia standards, drawing European immigrants, native Appalachian whites, and African Americans who came north for mining jobs. Racial segregation was in effect during Jim Crow: War had a separate Excelsior High School for Black students until the 1960s. In 1965, as civil rights advances reached even remote areas, McDowell County finally fully integrated its schools, merging Excelsior High into the main school system. This integration ended the era of segregated education in War and was a significant local milestone of the national civil rights movement.

Starting in the 1960s, War experienced dramatic demographic shifts. As demand for coal declined (due to competition from other fuel sources and mechanization), mining employment in southern West Virginia collapsed. Mines around War began closing, and younger generations left in search of jobs. The city’s population plummeted – from about 3,006 in 1960 down to roughly 2,000 in 1970, and it kept falling. By 1990, only 417 residents remained within the city limits, an astonishing decline of nearly 80% from a decade earlier. (Such a sharp drop may partly reflect a redefinition of city boundaries or an exodus from company housing after mines shut down.) The 2000 Census found 788 people, and the decline continued to 690 by 2020, illustrating the long-term depopulation of coal country. Culturally, as War’s population shrank and businesses closed, the community grew tighter-knit among those who stayed. Local schools and churches became even more central to civic life. Big Creek High School, located in War, was a source of pride and identity for the area – its students included the famed “Rocket Boys” (Homer Hickam and friends), whose 1950s science experiments in nearby Coalwood were chronicled in the memoir Rocket Boys and film October Sky. These students attended Big Creek High in War, putting the town on the map as a backdrop for their story. The high school, which opened in 1932, educated generations of locals until it finally closed in 2010 as part of county consolidation. Through such changes, War’s culture evolved from a booming, ethnically mixed coal town to a much smaller, close community that retains strong local traditions despite economic hardship.

Downtown War in the mid-2000s, showing the War Hotel (with a “Miner’s City” awning) and War Arcade on Main Street. By the early 21st century, many storefronts were closed or quiet, reflecting the loss of commerce as the coal industry declined.

Infrastructure and Public Institutions

War’s development over time is also visible in its infrastructure – from transportation routes to public facilities. The town lies along present-day West Virginia Route 16, a road that has historic roots as an old “War Path” used by Native Americans. In fact, the modern highway follows the same general corridor through North Carolina, Virginia, and into West Virginia, that warriors once traveled in colonial times. This roadway, winding through the Appalachian valleys, connected War to other communities and eventually carried early automobile traffic. The Norfolk & Western Railway was even more transformative: by 1905, N&W trains were servicing War, hauling coal out and bringing supplies in. The railroad built a small depot in town, which became a nucleus of activity and tied War into national markets for coal and timber. In subsequent decades, the region’s road network improved as well – paved highways replaced wagon trails, and by mid-century War was accessible by car and bus, linking it to the county seat at Welch and beyond.

As War grew in the 1920s–1950s, the community invested in public infrastructure and services. A municipal government was established upon incorporation in 1920, headed by an elected mayor and council. Basic utilities came gradually – wells and cisterns gave way to a public water system, and electricity arrived in the early-to-mid 20th century (often provided by the coal companies initially, then managed by utility firms). Civic amenities like a city hall, a post office (opened 1906), and later a public library were introduced as the town’s needs expanded. Education infrastructure was a priority: War Elementary School was built in 1923 to serve local children. Later, Big Creek High School (constructed 1931–32) became the area’s main secondary school, even drawing students from surrounding hollows. During segregation, Black students from War attended the separate Excelsior School (originally Excelsior High) until integration in 1965. The old Excelsior High building was partially incorporated into War Elementary afterward. For healthcare, residents in earlier years relied on company doctors or small clinics; a hospital trip meant traveling to Welch. Over time, infrastructure improvements like telephone lines, paved streets, and later cellular service reached War, though sometimes later than in more populated areas. By the late 20th century, the city maintained essential services (police, a volunteer fire department, water and sewer services) despite its reduced tax base. The continuity of these institutions – schools, churches, and basic utilities – helped sustain community life in War even as its economic base crumbled.

Notable Incidents and Historical Events

War’s history, while modest in scale, includes several notable incidents and episodes:

Frontier Battle (1788): The town’s very name memorializes a violent encounter in the 18th century. According to legend, around 1788 a battle was fought near the headwaters of War Creek between Native Americans and either pioneer settlers or rival tribes. This clash was significant enough that pioneers thereafter referred to the stream as “War Creek,” a name that survives today. Though this battle predates the town by well over a century, it remains a part of local lore and gave War an origin rooted in the tumult of frontier conflicts.

Coal Mine Accidents: Like many coal towns, War has seen its share of mining-related tragedies. Throughout the early 1900s, mining was a dangerous occupation in McDowell County. While War itself was not the site of a single famous mine disaster, numerous smaller accidents and fatalities occurred in local mines over the years – cave-ins, explosions, and machinery accidents that took the lives of miners. Each such incident reverberated through the tight-knit community. (For example, nearby Berwind and Caretta mines experienced fatal accidents that affected families in War.) These incidents fueled support for the mine safety and unionization efforts that improved conditions mid-century.

Crime and Law Enforcement: Generally a quiet small town, War has had a few high-profile crimes in its history. In recent memory, a shocking crime occurred in 2012 when War’s longtime mayor, Dr. Thomas Hatcher, was murdered in his home at age 72. City workers found Mayor Hatcher’s body on July 17, 2012, leading to an investigation that ultimately charged a 28-year-old man from Virginia (and a relative by marriage) with the killing. The suspect was convicted in 2014 of first-degree murder, bringing some closure to a crime that devastated the community. In another bizarre episode, Mayor Robert Beavers, who succeeded Hatcher, was re-elected in 2021 despite having been arrested days prior on drug and DUI charges. Shortly afterward in 2022, Beavers’s wife, daughter, and the city clerk were indicted for allegedly embezzling thousands of dollars from the town through fraudulent schemes. These incidents of corruption and violence at the highest level of local leadership were highly unusual for War, and they garnered state news attention. Despite such headlines, crime in War has more often taken the form of struggles with drug use and poverty-related issues common in post-coal Appalachia, rather than violent crime.

Floods and Disasters: The rugged terrain around War means flash flooding is a perennial threat. The town sits along War Creek near its junction with the Dry Fork River (Tug Fork tributary), and heavy rains have periodically caused serious floods. In July 2001 and May 2002, for instance, devastating floods swept through McDowell County. The 2002 flood was one of the worst in memory, destroying hundreds of homes and businesses throughout the county and killing several people in the region. War itself saw water inundate low-lying streets and structures, requiring emergency evacuations. These floods prompted federal disaster declarations and eventually led to new flood control and relief efforts. They also exacerbated the ongoing depopulation, as some displaced families never returned. Aside from floods, War has endured other natural woes such as occasional coal-seam fires and landslides on the steep hillsides, though none on a catastrophic scale of some neighboring communities.

Labor and Protest: While War did not host famous battles like the Matewan Massacre, it was indirectly involved in the coal industry’s labor strife. During the early 20th-century Mine Wars, pro-union miners and company guards skirmished in various parts of southern West Virginia. McDowell County largely stayed under company control then, but some union organizers secretly entered the area. In later decades, War’s miners participated in coal strikes and picket lines, including the nationwide strikes of 1943 and 1977. These collective actions, though not centered in War, affected its mines and reflected the town’s involvement in broader social movements for workers’ rights.

Recent Developments (2000s – Present)

In the past 10 to 20 years, War has grappled with the challenges of a post-coal economy while striving for renewal. By 2010, the city’s population had fallen to 862 and continued to drop to just 690 by 2020. Economic opportunities are scarce – most coal mines closed decades ago, and younger residents often move away. The community that remains is largely older and faces high poverty rates, as McDowell County consistently ranks among the poorest counties in the nation. Despite these struggles, local leaders and citizens have undertaken modest revitalization efforts. War joined programs aimed at uplifting rural communities, partnering with regional development organizations to seek new avenues for growth. One promising angle has been tourism and outdoor recreation: War is now a trailhead for the new Warrior ATV Trail System, part of the popular Hatfield–McCoy Trails network. This off-road trail, opened in the late 2010s, attracts all-terrain vehicle enthusiasts to ride through the scenic mountains around War. The Warrior trail connects War with other ATV-friendly towns and brings a trickle of visitors who patronize local gas stations, diners, and lodging. Community events, such as festivals and an annual Rocket Boys celebration (honoring the area’s famous astronauts-to-be), have been organized to build civic pride and draw tourists.

City infrastructure has also seen attention. In recent years, grants have been directed toward improving water systems, demolishing condemned buildings, and beautification of the tiny downtown. The closure of Big Creek High School in 2010 was a blow to War’s identity, but the school buildings have been repurposed for community uses and vocational training centers. War’s residents continue to exhibit resilience and hometown pride. According to a 2021 community case study, locals “remain proud of their history” and are “redefining the future of Southern WV” by looking for new opportunities beyond coal. The city promotes itself as a quiet, close-knit community with outdoor recreation potential and a rich heritage. Small businesses – a bank branch, a few convenience stores, a garage, and others – still operate, and a volunteer fire department and health clinic serve the populace.

As of the mid-2020s, War is a much smaller town than in its coal boom era, but its story encapsulates the broader arc of Appalachia. From early frontier conflicts to a coal-fueled boomtown, through labor struggles, demographic upheaval, and economic collapse, up to recent efforts at reinvention, War’s history spans over two centuries. It is a history marked by resilience in the face of change. Today, the “War” in West Virginia stands as a living reminder of both the region’s turbulent past and the determination of its people to find hope and community amid adversity.

Sources

West Virginia Blue Book, “War – McDowell County” (2016)

Fortunecity Community Pages, History of the City of War (c.1995)

West Virginia Encyclopedia (e-WV), United Mine Workers of America

West Virginia Encyclopedia (e-WV), Poverty

War, West Virginia – Wikipedia (population and incorporation data)

Southern Spaces (E. Dotter photo essay), Coalfield Generations

WV Public Broadcasting News (AP), “Trial Begins for Man Accused of War Mayor’s Murder” (Jan. 29, 2014)

WCHS-TV News (AP), “Man convicted of murdering War mayor” (Oct. 25, 2019)

WVVA News, “Mayor’s family, War official indicted on fraud charges” (Mar. 1, 2022)

WV Community Development Hub, “War – Community Case Study” (2019)

Hatfield–McCoy Trails info, “Warrior Trail System”